//essays//
Fall 2018
Make a Vish!
Baila Eisen
A new smell is wafting through the Kraft Center. It is strong, heady, and distinctly Mediterranean. Visitors to the second floor are greeted by cheerful new decorations, including Hebrew letter stickers forming the phrase: “Love your fellow as you love yourself.” A smiling stranger stirs a large pot behind an inviting wooden counter.
Welcome to Vish, Columbia/Barnard Hillel’s newest restaurant.
The presence of a new restaurant on the second floor of the Kraft Center comes as a surprise. Café Nana, Vish’s predecessor, has long been a staple of Jewish life on Columbia/Barnard’s campus. Where did Vish come from? And where did Nana go?
Luckily, Avi Atia, former owner of Café Nana, is still standing at his regular place behind the counter. This is Atia’s seventh year running a Kosher restaurant on the second floor of the Hillel. He explains that he is responsible for the new restaurant, and he is happy to provide some background on Vish.
According to Atia, Vish is a restaurant chain created by the people who run Hummus Eliyahu, a popular Hummus franchise in Israel.
“In Israel, they’re successful,” Atia says. “So they’re trying to bring the franchise to America. They opened a couple in New York, but soon they’re going to spread—to Florida, Washington. They’re expanding.”
When asked how Vish came across the Columbia/Barnard Hillel, Avi explains that he had previously at- tempted to open a branch for Vish elsewhere in the city. When that failed, he decided to simply attempt a new branch of Vish at Hillel, replacing Café Nana.
“We’re trying something different,” he says. “Vish’s menu is not big, it’s more specialized. Everybody sells pizza and paninis. Hummus is something special, and if you like it, this is a good place to come.”
Although he doesn’t own the space on the second floor of the Hillel, Atia feels that as the owner of Café Nana, he has the right to close it and open a new place.
“I’m the ba’al habayit,” he says. “I’m the owner.”
The Hillel, however, which owns the space, was not completely thrilled with Atia’s abrupt switch from Nana to Vish. According to Brian Cohen, Lavine Family Executive Director, Hillel was not informed of Atia’s plans until less than a week before Vish’s grand opening.
“I thought that they were renovating the space,” Cohen says. “Avi had told us that they would be condensing their menu. Until the last minute, I had not heard of Vish. It was”—he pauses—“a pleasant surprise.”
In spite of his initial uncertainty, Cohen has been won over by Vish. “I think the food is better than what they had [at Café Nana]. I’ve started eating there regularly.” Judging by the large number of patrons and the empty bowls they leave behind, it seems that most people would agree.
Cohen says that it is essential for the Hillel to be a place where Columbia/Barnard students, staff, and community members can come together to mingle and enjoy themselves.
“It is important for us to see a vibrant business on the second floor,” Cohen says. “This should be an institution where everyone affiliated with the university and the surrounding community can come and eat.”
But still: What is Vish? What does it mean?
“Vish means niguv,” Atia explains. “In Israel, when you go out to eat hummus, you say, ‘Come on, bo nenagev!” He makes an enthusiastic swirling motion with his right arm. The word Atia uses literally means “to wipe.” In Israeli slang, this refers to the act of swirling pita around a hummus bowl before taking a bite.
“In what language?” I ask.
“Niguv? That’s Hebrew.”
“No, what language is the word ‘vish’?” I say.
“English!”
As an English major, I can assure you that it isn't. But I understood what Atia and his Vish compatriots are trying to do: create something new and unheard of, while making it seem as natural as homemade hummus. Only time will tell if “to vish” will become the new “to tweet.” But hey, the mystery is part of the fun. And whatever its name might actually mean, it looks like Vish is here to stay.
Welcome to Vish, Columbia/Barnard Hillel’s newest restaurant.
The presence of a new restaurant on the second floor of the Kraft Center comes as a surprise. Café Nana, Vish’s predecessor, has long been a staple of Jewish life on Columbia/Barnard’s campus. Where did Vish come from? And where did Nana go?
Luckily, Avi Atia, former owner of Café Nana, is still standing at his regular place behind the counter. This is Atia’s seventh year running a Kosher restaurant on the second floor of the Hillel. He explains that he is responsible for the new restaurant, and he is happy to provide some background on Vish.
According to Atia, Vish is a restaurant chain created by the people who run Hummus Eliyahu, a popular Hummus franchise in Israel.
“In Israel, they’re successful,” Atia says. “So they’re trying to bring the franchise to America. They opened a couple in New York, but soon they’re going to spread—to Florida, Washington. They’re expanding.”
When asked how Vish came across the Columbia/Barnard Hillel, Avi explains that he had previously at- tempted to open a branch for Vish elsewhere in the city. When that failed, he decided to simply attempt a new branch of Vish at Hillel, replacing Café Nana.
“We’re trying something different,” he says. “Vish’s menu is not big, it’s more specialized. Everybody sells pizza and paninis. Hummus is something special, and if you like it, this is a good place to come.”
Although he doesn’t own the space on the second floor of the Hillel, Atia feels that as the owner of Café Nana, he has the right to close it and open a new place.
“I’m the ba’al habayit,” he says. “I’m the owner.”
The Hillel, however, which owns the space, was not completely thrilled with Atia’s abrupt switch from Nana to Vish. According to Brian Cohen, Lavine Family Executive Director, Hillel was not informed of Atia’s plans until less than a week before Vish’s grand opening.
“I thought that they were renovating the space,” Cohen says. “Avi had told us that they would be condensing their menu. Until the last minute, I had not heard of Vish. It was”—he pauses—“a pleasant surprise.”
In spite of his initial uncertainty, Cohen has been won over by Vish. “I think the food is better than what they had [at Café Nana]. I’ve started eating there regularly.” Judging by the large number of patrons and the empty bowls they leave behind, it seems that most people would agree.
Cohen says that it is essential for the Hillel to be a place where Columbia/Barnard students, staff, and community members can come together to mingle and enjoy themselves.
“It is important for us to see a vibrant business on the second floor,” Cohen says. “This should be an institution where everyone affiliated with the university and the surrounding community can come and eat.”
But still: What is Vish? What does it mean?
“Vish means niguv,” Atia explains. “In Israel, when you go out to eat hummus, you say, ‘Come on, bo nenagev!” He makes an enthusiastic swirling motion with his right arm. The word Atia uses literally means “to wipe.” In Israeli slang, this refers to the act of swirling pita around a hummus bowl before taking a bite.
“In what language?” I ask.
“Niguv? That’s Hebrew.”
“No, what language is the word ‘vish’?” I say.
“English!”
As an English major, I can assure you that it isn't. But I understood what Atia and his Vish compatriots are trying to do: create something new and unheard of, while making it seem as natural as homemade hummus. Only time will tell if “to vish” will become the new “to tweet.” But hey, the mystery is part of the fun. And whatever its name might actually mean, it looks like Vish is here to stay.
//BAILA EISEN is a junior in Barnard College. She can be reached at [email protected].
Photo courtesy of: http://vish.rest/.
Photo courtesy of: http://vish.rest/.